Making Ships railings out of thread.

The following notes are based on an email I sent to the card-modelling group in August 2000.

Background

I have found what is for me a satisfactory method for making ships railings out of thread. Call me either a purist or a skinflint, but I think that ship models look a lot better with railings, etc and using metal photo-etched parts is either a) cheating b) not "paper" modelling or c) expensive. It also means that you can't claim a model is all paper (well cellulose).

Basic Method

Wind thread around and then across an open framework to make a grid of threads with the correct spacing. Coat the threads in a "glue" and cut out the rail sections when dry.

Framework

There is a PDF file with a template for a framework on the page where you found this file.

I made up a wooden frame using the template out of 6mm plywood, but very thick corrugated cardboard would also work. It must be strong enough not to distort when the thread is tightly wrapped round it. The rails run the length of the frame.

Rail templates

Where you are looking at replacing solid paper rails with thread ones, photocopy the paper rail sections and glue a copy on either side of hole in the template. Make sure the left hand edges of the sections are aligned. Make two sets of rails (left and right hand sides of the ship) at the same time.

Thread types

I have tried polyester, silk and cotton. I found cotton the best. Standard sewing thread seems to be about the right thickness.

Threading the template

Tie the end of the thread to the template. Wrap the thread round the template, doing the long threads first (the rails), then the cross-threads (stanchions). I got the best results by not wrapping the cotton too tightly, but tight enough not to move when glueing.

Glue

I got best results with the very runny instant superglue. Slightly watered down PVA glue will also work but the rails are not as rigid.

Glueing

Now soak the entire grid of threads in the hole in glue. I found it better to running the nozzle of the superglue bottle along the threads rather than
dabbing at it. Blobs are best dealt with by lifting off with a paper tissue (quickly so it doesn't stick!). Work in a very well ventilated space.

Trimming

The rails are ready to use pretty much straight away, but may be better if left to cure for 24 hours. Carefully rough-cut sections from the template with scissors, then lay on a cutting mat and use a sharp knife to cut accurately out.

Fixing.

Rails can be glued in place with superglue or PVA. Curved sections may be bent to shape easily around a curved former, eg a craft knife handle.

Notes.

Colours - superglue makes the thread go much darker than it's unglued colour. Experiment with different colours to get it right.